Indonesia (under) Attack?

I first saw information about the bombing attack in Jakarta from our CCIP host family’s Facebook group. This information quickly spread through the news, including online news, and even generated worldwide attention, particularly on social media. I have seen numerous hashtags on Twitter: #JakartaAttack, #SarinahTragedi, #PrayForJKT, #KamiTidakTakut (we are not afraid). All mean to say that as Indonesians we are not afraid of terrorism attacks. The bombing attack in Jakarta affected the entire Indonesian archipelago, including my island in North Maluku, the eastern part of Indonesia. Recent news from a leading newspaper in North Maluku, said the U.S. Ambassador to Indonesia, Mr. Robert O. Blake, was in high-security protection while visiting Ternate on January 16. More than 250 police officers were placed in several locations passed by Mr. Blake.

Inter-religious rallied against terorism in Jakarta (photo: Amilia Rosa)

What is actually happening in Indonesia? I am not a terrorism expert, however, in order to try to answer this question. I will give some facts that I personally experienced as an Indonesian from a religious and ethnic minority as well as living in remote areas in the eastern part of Indonesia. Indonesia is a multicultural country with about 206,000,000 people. The largest Muslim population in the world is located not in the Middle East, but in Indonesia. It is estimated 95% of the population is Muslim. This tragedy was not the first, Indonesia has experienced a lot of problems since becoming independent in August of 1945. Different problems from political issues, tribal conflicts, corruption, poverty, inequality of development between western and eastern Indonesia, and even access to education for low-income families.  Those issues also might be a universal matter within each country in the world. It is not an easy fix to deal with terrorism, moreover, it is a big responsibility of enormously diverse people, from Sabang (the most western part of Indonesia) to Merauke (the most eastern part of Indonesia). With more than 1,000 islands, 300 native groups, and 742 different languages/dialects, no one in Indonesia has ever met all the tribes or visited all the islands.

This latest bombing in Sarinah Mall, Jakarta it is not only Indonesia’s issue, it is a global tragedy. It probably means we still have a lot of work to do for humanity, and to show more care for marginalized members of society. People might blame one particular group or associate terrorism attacks with Muslim. But in my point of view, terrorism has no religion. I was born as a minority in Indonesia, grew up in the Muslim community, experienced inter-community conflict in my place and I am Christian, but I never blamed Muslim and I do not want to. If I place blame, it means I will start to hate my own family and close friends who are Muslim. Religions are unique colors which make our lives beautiful and are intended to create a peaceful life among people. Indonesia is a Muslim country but it is Indonesian Muslim which is distinctive from other parts of the world because our values based on diversity and relationship among different religions and ethnic. We may suffer for a while because of terrorist attacks but we will never be afraid of each other, or allow terrorism to separate our relationships along religious and ethnic lines.

Forest Tobelo Tribe in Halmahera (part 2 – end)

Forest Tobelo is usually still “nomad”, they move with their group where’s plenty of food, and there is a leader lead the group. They usually wear clothes from tree bark, but some of them have worn shirts and pants. For forest Tobelo who often have contact with outside world they usually send their representation and always men will attend the meeting. As I know forest Tobelo will not tell their place, except for someone they really trust.

Sometimes forest Tobelo has conflict with local people who live in villages. Many stories I heard both in Central and East Halmahera regencies during my travel and discussion with the local community about forest Tobelo killed a couple, son, and father, etc.

I know most of them are not civilized but they are not animals they are the human being who also love and care their belonging including protecting their family. They have been resided in the forest since long time ago when I was a student my lecture always said that we are the guest who comes in their lands so it is appropriate we respect their culture and recognize their existence by not enter their lands without permission.

Bokum and Nuhu, forest Tobelo from Akejira area were captured by police on March 1, 2015. They were suspected murders.

Early of this month March 1, 2015, Bokum and Nuhu, forest Tobelo from Akejira area has been captured by police in Woejerana village, Central Halmahera. Police officer arrested them based on homicides case in Waci village, South Maba about 180 km from their place in Akejira area.

This is a strange case because, in Waci, there is another forest Tobelo group “the Woesopen” inhibited and the Akejira group will not possibly pass their area, if they pass they will fight because of different groups. Until now there is no information that Bokum and Nuhu have been released or still in jail. I hope the police will be fair in threat people in North Maluku whether they are live in a city or even in the forest, they still have rights to live and socialize with other.

Forest Tobelo Tribe in Halmahera (part 1)

Two groups of forest Tobelo; behind Waci village, Woesopen group and in Akejira, Akejira group.

Forest Tobelo is the indigenous people of Halmahera, North Maluku. They mostly live in the east of Halmahera island area. The origin history of forest Tobelo or in local language called as “togutil” / “O’Hongana Manyawa” still unknown. Forest Tobelo has been living in Halmahera island since a long time ago before the Spanish, Portuguese and Dutch arrived in North Maluku for hunting clove and nutmeg, they went to the forest after the Dutch authority asked to pay tax. Presently some of them have been relocated to villages, the government provided houses (this group can be found near the river in the main road from Subaim to Buli, East Halmahera). However, still many of them live in forest hunting animals and traditionally cook their food.

There are many groups living in Halmahera forest, this information I got from a friend of mine who work in the forest. They speak Tobelo language and because of various groups of forest Tobelo, not all of them is friendly with the foreigner who come in their area, they could become aggressive particularly the isolated group who rarely have contact with the outside world.

My tip is please contact the specialist of forest Tobelo guide if you want to visit them in the forest and gather much information as needed before entering the forest. I think as long as we respect their culture, for instance, do not touch their belonging or enter their garden/house if they’re no allowed to do so, everything will be OK. Have a safe travel!

Forest Tobelo group in East of Halmahera

Tidore The Lost Kingdom

Tidore is situated in North Maluku, this island was also produced spices (nutmeg and clove) in the past. It has a long history in colonial era and a witness of fierce battle between the Dutch and the Spanish. The sultanate kingdom of Tidore ruled most southern Halmahera and controlled Buru, Ambon and many islands off the coast of New Guinea in post colonial era. Now many people of Tidore spread from Halmahera to Papua. Its culture and language become one of the important heritage in Halmahera people and generally in North Maluku province. Tidore is a municipality, there are eight districts: Oba, South Oba, Central Oba, North Oba, Tidore, East Tidore, South Tidore and North Tidore. The four Obas located in Halmahera island, a larger island than Tidore.

When driving along Oba villages in Halmahera, we can easily find some schools on behalf of Tidore municipality, whereas Oba is in a larger island compare to Tidore. This is a unique naming method from government, probably names of public facilities depend on its government centre of administration in North Maluku not based on the original area, or probably because the influence of Tidore sultanate kingdom until now.

Tidore can be reach from many places from Ternate by speedboat approx. 20 minutes, if you flight from Manado to Kao you need to rent a car to Sofifi and continue by speedboat to Tidore. Tidore island has a magnificent scenery, when pass by speedboat people can see a dead volcanic, beautiful coral and beach. People can also enjoy the colonial heritage such as Tahua fort and a landing monument of Spanish sailor, Sebastiano De Elaco. The culture and the sultanate kingdom of Tidore is one of the treasure in North Maluku. I hope it is not only as a bed-time story for children about a courage of Sultan Nuku fought the colonial in North Maluku, but these cultural heritages need to be preserved by all parties, so the kindom will not lose its identity.

Wasilei – East Halmahera

Nearly three years I have been working for my company. Our projects consist of two regencies in Central Halmahera and East Halmahera. We regularly carry-out monitoring in villages both Central and East Halmahera. The most fascinating is traveling to East Halmahera by helicopter (we usually called it chopper). I always a bit afraid, altough go on board is not my first experience. The trip took about 15 – 20 minutes from Central to East Halmahera, passing through Halmahera forest and you can see many rivers spread on valleys. The area where I ussually visit is in South Wasilei district. In general there are ten districts in East Halmahera: Maba Town, Maba, South Maba, Central Maba, North Maba, Wasilei, South Wasilei, Central Wasilei, East Wasilei and North Wasilei. The capital and central of government is located in Maba (approx. 5 hours drive by car). It is far away from local community who live in Wasilei area, they have to spend more than a hundred thousands rupiah just for one ID card organized in Maba. After new head of regency ruled this area the public facility has been well developed. I loved the cultures in East Halmahera, it is a melting pot between immigrants from Java and Halmaherans. One of immigrant village is Binagara where our office located. This village also a gate to visit Aketajawe National Park, a friend of mine, Mr. Mahroji, managed ecotourism activities such as: forest trekking and bird-watching to see the paradise bird (Semiopthera wallacii), an endemic bird in Halmahera forest. If you like forest adventure in Halmahera please contact me, I will inform him. Most immigrant is hard-working people, they work as farmers and businessmen, some of them joined in civil servant or become a head of village. When visit Binagara you must try local farm products, Binagara watermelon and orange.

Central Halmahera (part 2)

Local people in Central Halmahera is similar with other tribes in Halmahera Island, mostly still high dependant on forest, cultivated lands for crops and worked as fisherman. Many international researchers recently came in this area and were impressed with the fauna and flora in Halmahera forest. They also found new species of fresh water fish and some endemic plants. Ecotourism resort is established in Sawai Itepo, a village in Central Weda sub-district. Weda Resort provided ecotourism activities such as: snorkeling, diving and birds watching.

The most wanted job here is civil servants. It is more “guaranteed job” that what I have heard all around Halmahera, including my mother mentioned it. People in Central Halmahera also familiar with mining industry, there are many of these industries scattered from Gebe Island until North of Weda, some have exported nickel ore but now it is banned by Indonesian government. Company has to build the processing plant (smelter) in place.

During day off I visited villages, meet with locals or walk along company’s road. I can see a lot of different birds flying above me, reptile like “soa – soa Halmahera” (Hydrosaurus weberi) passed road and if you are lucky you might find snake “patola tanah” (Morelia Tracyae). The incredible scenery make I could not turn off my camera.

Halmahera in general is rich in natural resources: mining (gold, nickel, manganese, ect.,), farming & fishery, also tourism. My big question: are we ready to manage this? Education quality and teacher qualification become the common problems in this area, and I think not only in C.H, other part of Halmahera also have the same challenges. Students cannot get adequate education support, for instance in remote villages in Halmahera one Elementary school filled-up only three or four teachers, and more critical issue is the parents not awere of education for their children. There is one expression in Tobelo language that I always remember since I was a teenager “o hakola me ho oyomo, o hakola ua me ho oyomo” mean you do not need to go to school because there is plenty of food (from forest/farm). I hope the young people in this area realized about their responsibility to take part in developing their villages by enhance their capabilities through education. Do not feel bad if you were born in this area, feel worst if you do nothing while you are still young and have a lot of opportunities.

Central Halmahera (part 1)

There is an endless adventure to explore Halmahera island. I spent most of my time since 2012 in Central Halmahera regency, due to my company’s location in this area. Weda is the capital town of Central Halmahera. It divided into eight sub-districts (Weda, Central Weda, North Weda, South Weda, Gebe Island, Patani, North Patani and West Patani). Most of this area is rich in nickel resources (ore deposit). Despite, I live not far away from this area in the Northern part of Halmahera (approx. 8,5 hours by car), I was afraid when first time came in Central Halmahera after sectarian-conflict history in entire parts of North Maluku province, particularly Halmahera area in 14 years ago. The conflict was the traumatic moment I ever had in my life and I think all people who had such experienced will feel in the same way. However I found people in here is friendly, in fact, few villages speaking Tobelo language.

Nearly two years working here, I feel so cozy with the people, the unique cultures of Sawai tribe and magnificent natural places surrounded by virgin forest. An interesting story of their strong relationship during sectarian-conflict two neighboring villages: Lelilef Woebulen and Lelilef Sawai were protected each other although they were in different groups of conflict. This area is so beautiful, like the beauty of an endemic bird of Halmahera, Wallace’s Standardwing (semioptera walacii), cannot be found in other places and always hides her beauty in the deep forest of Halmahera. (Continue to part 2).